| I live in Brussels, Belgium; however, I am a native | | | | 89 intersects with Highway 12, you must turn |
| of California. It used to be fun to watch the | | | | right for about 35 minutes to the park’s |
| reaction of people here when I told them this. | | | | entrance. |
| Their eyes would almost glaze over and they | | | | For lodging you have two choices. All along |
| would sigh, “If I ever visit the United | | | | Highway 12 you will find motels, whose prices rise |
| States, it will have to be California.” | | | | the closer you get to the park. They have |
| It used to be fun to watch this reaction. It | | | | another disadvantage. They are rather isolated, so |
| isn’t any more, because I now feel like a | | | | you are almost obliged to eat where you decide |
| traitor to my heritage. “If you ever visit | | | | to sleep. |
| the United States,” I now say, | | | | The other possibility will cost less and give you |
| ”there is better than California.” | | | | greater freedom. About 5 minutes beyond the |
| Certainly, Joshua Tree, King’s Canyon, | | | | junction of U.S. 89 and Highway12, you will find |
| Sequoia, Yosemite and other natural splendors in | | | | Panguitch. This town has a plentiful supply of |
| California are well worth seeing. And Los Angeles | | | | motels, a number of restaurants, a supermarket |
| (my hometown), San Diego, San Francisco, and | | | | and other shopping opportunities. |
| Sacramento are exciting cities. However, what | | | | Count on spending two days in Bryce Canyon, |
| you will see in Utah will literally blow your mind. | | | | and possibly three if you simply can't tear |
| Utah? Yes, Utah. Plus a little bit of Arizona and | | | | yourself away, before going on to your next |
| Nevada. But principally Utah. | | | | destination. So book your motel accordingly. |
| I didn’t come to this conclusion lightly. I | | | | When you decide to move on, resist the |
| was led to it several years by a Belgian friend | | | | temptation to return to the interstate for a quick |
| who had recently returned from a vacation in the | | | | trip to Canyonlands and Arches in eastern Utah. |
| U.S. and was showing me his photos, particularly | | | | This is about a 4-5 hour drive from Panguitch |
| of Bryce Canyon (western Utah). They were | | | | along a comfortable, high-speed superhighway. |
| blindingly beautiful. With a smile of knowing | | | | The problem is, you see practically nothing of |
| superiority, I chuckled a bit and said, “Look, | | | | interest along the way. |
| I know something about photography. I know | | | | Rather, take Highway 12 back past Bryce Canyon |
| how such pictures can be arranged.” | | | | towards Capital Reef National Park. Highway 12, |
| “I didn’t arrange them,” he | | | | one of the most scenic routes in the U.S., will |
| replied. “In Bryce Canyon, all you have to | | | | offer you sights as remarkable as any you will |
| do is close your eyes, point your camera | | | | see in the parks themselves. The temptation to |
| anywhere. And this is what you get!” | | | | stop frequently to take pictures will be |
| I took him up on the challenge. A few months | | | | overwhelming. |
| later, I went to visit family in Las Vegas, then | | | | Stopping at Capital Reef: A Capital Question |
| rented a car and headed north into Utah. First | | | | Should you actually stop at Capital Reef? |
| stop after driving through the barren Nevada | | | | Everything depends on how much time you have |
| desert was Zion Canyon National Park. Exceedingly | | | | available. Like all the national parks, Capital Reef is |
| green, even exceedingly beautiful, but not exactly | | | | splendid. But to my mind, it is one of the least |
| what I would call spectacular. Two hours further | | | | spectacular (there are there degrees of |
| on, I saw Bryce Canyon National Park and simply | | | | spectacular). |
| didn’t believe my eyes. “This just | | | | The best thing is to follow Highway12 to Torrey, |
| can’t be!” I gasped. I spent the | | | | which is just outside of Capital Reef, and check in |
| whole day exploring the place, still gasping and still | | | | some place. There are plenty of motels and some |
| not believing my eyes, | | | | local restaurants. By leaving Panguitch by 9 a.m., |
| I have now seen Bryce Canyon seven times, and | | | | you can arrive in Torrey in plenty of time to see |
| always with the same unalloyed amazement. I | | | | part of Capital Reef that day. The next day you |
| admit to having a particular weakness for the | | | | return for a second look, then in the afternoon |
| park’s indescribably tangerine-orange | | | | move on towards Arches and Canyonlands. |
| symphonies in stone, thousands of | | | | Highway 24, which leads from Capital Reef |
| them—literally. But my reaction to Arches, | | | | towards Arches and Canyonlands, has many |
| Canyonlands, Capital Reef, and Natural Bridges | | | | attractive sights along the way. So keep your |
| national parks, all in Utah, come reasonably close. | | | | camera ready and don’t hurry. |
| If there is truly an enchanted land anywhere on | | | | Highway 24 joins the I-70 at a place called Green |
| earth, Utah must be it. | | | | River. You will still be about an hour’s drive |
| Now knowing the region reasonably well, I would | | | | from Moab, the local metropole and the so-called |
| like to propose an easy itinerary for first-time | | | | “Gateway to Arches and |
| visitors, with some personal tips you probably | | | | Canyonlands”. However, unless you have a |
| won’t find in guidebooks. This will not be a | | | | particular reason for going to Moab, don’t. |
| fixed itinerary, except for the first few stops. | | | | Considerably smaller than Moab, Green River has |
| Everyone has different interests, and time and | | | | a wide selection of motels and four or five |
| money to spend on them. So beyond the | | | | restaurants. On average, you will find the motels |
| absolutely key things to see and do, you will be | | | | about 20 - 25% cheaper in Green River and you |
| on your own. | | | | should have little trouble finding one, whereas in |
| How to Win In Las Vegas | | | | Moab, depending on the season and the time you |
| Start your vacation in Las Vegas. If you have | | | | get there, you may have to look around a bit. |
| never been there before, it is well worth seeing. If | | | | Both North Canyonlands (known as “The |
| you have been there before, you will probably | | | | Island in the Sky”) and Arches are only |
| want to see it again, because it is constantly | | | | about an hour’s drive from Green River. |
| changing. | | | | Before you read any further, I should warn you |
| Since it has become such a popular tourist | | | | this itinerary does not include the world famous |
| attraction (just under 40 million visitors a year), | | | | Grand Canyon. There is a good reason for this. |
| Las Vegas is no longer the unbelievably cheap | | | | North Canyonlands has a section right near the |
| oasis it used to be. However, it is still very good | | | | entrance that looks very much like the Grand |
| value. | | | | Canyon. If you have never seen the Grand |
| Plan to arrive on a weekday (Monday - Thursday). | | | | Canyon, Canyonlands offers a convincing |
| On the weekend, hotel prices can zoom to double | | | | substitute. And you will not need to spend two |
| and often triple what they are during the week | | | | precious days to go see the real thing! |
| (Friday, Saturday, and for some hotels, Sunday). | | | | South Canyonlands |
| You can take full advantage at any time | | | | Your next stop will be South Canyonlands (also |
| (weekdays and weekends) of LV’s lavish | | | | known as “The Needles”), which is |
| buffets for practically nothing. The different hotels | | | | about a two-hour drive from Green River and a |
| ferociously compete with each other to put on | | | | one-hour drive from Moab. But don’t hurry. |
| the best possible spreads at the lowest possible | | | | The road that leads from Moab to South |
| prices. Why? The theory is, when you come into | | | | Canyonlands offers a number of photo |
| a hotel to eat, whatever they may lose by | | | | opportunities. |
| lavishly feeding you, they will more than | | | | You will probably want to stay in Monticello. This |
| recuperate by what you drop in the casino. | | | | town is much smaller than Moab, more like Green |
| Avoid the trap. Enjoy the bargain in the buffet | | | | River, with a reasonable assortment of motels |
| and keep you hands in your pockets as you pass | | | | and restaurants. Be certain to ask directions to |
| through the casino. In most hotels, they only way | | | | the Mormon Temple, a few streets off the main |
| to get to the buffet is through the casino, | | | | road but well worth the detour. |
| specifically to tempt you! | | | | If you leave Green River or Moab by 9 a.m., you |
| If you are going to gamble and think you can win, | | | | should arrive in Monticello before noon. The |
| play poker. Avoid black jack, roulette, baccarat, | | | | entrance to South Canyonlands is several |
| and certainly the one-armed bandits (slot | | | | kilometers before you arrive in Monticello, so you |
| machines). | | | | might want to spend a few hours in the park |
| What’s the difference? | | | | first. This way, you can then decide whether or |
| When you play poker, you are pitting your skill | | | | not you want to return the park the next |
| only against the others at the table. If you are | | | | morning or immediately move on. |
| sufficiently good, you can walk away with a | | | | Natural Bridges and a Breathtaking Overlook |
| bundle; the casino simply rents the space and | | | | When you leave Monticello, head south on U.S. 191 |
| couldn’t care less who wins and loses. | | | | towards Blanding and the junction with Highway |
| However, if you play any these other games, you | | | | 95, then turn west. Here you will find two sights |
| are playing “against the house”. The | | | | seldom mentioned in travel guides. The first is |
| casino cares very much who wins and loses, you | | | | Natural Bridges National Monument. Like Capital |
| or them. So they fix things so that the loser will | | | | Reef, it is less spectacular than some other |
| always be you. Always. | | | | attractions, but well worth the visit. |
| Don’t believe it? There is no secret about | | | | A few kilometers from Natural Bridges, turn south |
| it. Virtually every casino has signs shouting | | | | on Highway 261 to one of the most awesome |
| something like “We give you the best odds | | | | sights you will ever see. The road seems to |
| in town: 98%!” This is LV code that means | | | | abruptly end at a sheer cliff that drops several |
| ”For every 98 times you win, we win 100 | | | | hundred meters towards Monument Valley, but |
| times.” | | | | gives the impression of diving straight to the |
| Saying that the games are fixed doesn’t | | | | centre of the Earth. |
| mean that the dice on the craps table are loaded | | | | The road does not actually end here, but |
| or that the croupier has a secret button to | | | | descends the cliff to the plain below. You may be |
| control the spinning of the roulette wheel. | | | | reluctant to make this apparently perilous journey |
| It’s the rules that are fixed. | | | | on a gravel road. However, there are long, slow |
| In black jack, for example, the dealer first | | | | switchbacks all the way down, making the |
| distributes two cards to each player, including | | | | descent easier than it may look. |
| himself. Anyone whose cards add up to 21 | | | | But what about getting back up again? |
| automatically wins; otherwise the winner is the | | | | Don’t worry. Once at the bottom you can |
| person (or persons) who come closest to the | | | | drive along Highway 163 back to U.S. 191 and a |
| magic number 21 without going over it. Imagine | | | | gentle rise back towards Blanding. |
| that your first two cards add up to 14, so you | | | | This will be a decision point. You can now head |
| ask for another card. It is a 10, bringing your total | | | | east about 130 kilometers to Mesa Verde, with |
| to 24. You have gone over 21 (you have gone | | | | spectacular scenery and the remains of Indian cliff |
| bust), so the dealer collects your bet. The dealer | | | | dwellings. Or you can head south into Moment |
| is always the last to play. Suppose he also goes | | | | Valley, the Petrified Forest and the Painted |
| bust. What happens? Nothing. He still keeps your | | | | Desert. |
| bet. So even though the dealer loses, the casino | | | | However, if you are now beginning to doubt that |
| still wins! | | | | what you saw at Bryce Canyon was real (I have |
| It is like this with all the other games where you | | | | seen it seven time and I still have doubts), you |
| play against the house. The rules are fixed to | | | | can take Highway 95 beck towards Capital Reef. |
| guarantee that sooner or later the casino will take | | | | Highway 95 is every bit as interesting and |
| your money. | | | | photogenic as is Highway 24 between Capital |
| Knowing that you are going to lose—get it | | | | Reef and Green River. |
| firmly into your head that you are going to | | | | After leaving Bryce Canyon for the second time, |
| lose—the only reason for gambling is to | | | | you may be looking for an interesting, inexpensive |
| have fun. If you enjoy playing black jack, craps, | | | | place for R & R (rest and relaxation). Stop in |
| roulette, etc., go right ahead. But choose the | | | | Mesquite. This is the last gambling oasis in Nevada |
| lowest possible bet. You can have just as much | | | | before crossing into Arizona and Utah. Still a small |
| fun losing $10 as you can losing $100, probably a | | | | town (but rapidly growing), Mesquite has only a |
| lot more. | | | | handful of big casino hotels, which in their own |
| If your objective is to win at these games, stay | | | | way rival many in Las Vegas at about half the |
| as far away from Vegas as you possible can. As | | | | price. |
| the joke goes: How can you leave Las Vegas | | | | As you head down the I-15 back towards LV, |
| with a $1 million in your pocket? Easy. Arrive with | | | | swing off for 2-3 hours in The Valley of Fire, a |
| $5 million. | | | | Nevada state park well worth the detour. |
| First Stop: Zion Canyon | | | | Another possibility. If time permits, take the I-15 |
| To get back to the real world, it’s time to | | | | straight through LV towards Laughlin, about |
| move north to Utah. | | | | 1½ hours south. Laughlin is the last gambling |
| Foreign visitors should know that the American | | | | oasis on Nevada’s southern border. There |
| highway system is divided between federally | | | | are several advantages to spending a couple of |
| financed highways and state financed highways. | | | | days there. |
| Both classes are usually high quality and easy to | | | | 1. To get to Laughlin, you must pass by Hoover |
| drive, with federal highways tending to be wider | | | | (Bolder) Dam and Lake Mead, both worth a |
| with more lanes. | | | | look-see. |
| Federal highways are shown on signs in the shape | | | | 2. Laughlin is on the Colorado River, so if you like |
| of a shield. There are two categories of federal | | | | water sports, you will be very much in your |
| highways, designated “Interstate” or | | | | element. |
| “U.S.” plus a number. In conversation, | | | | 3. The river is the border with Arizona and |
| the names are often abbreviated, so that | | | | California, so if you have never been to California |
| Interstate 1 becomes I-1, Interstate 2 becomes | | | | and insist on setting foot in the Golden State, it is |
| I-2, etc. U.S. highways remain U.S. 1, U.S. 2, etc. | | | | just a few minutes away. |
| State highways are identified by the | | | | 4. Because Laughlin, like Mesquite, is not a highly |
| state’s name plus a number, and shown on | | | | publicized tourist attraction, its hotels are very |
| signs depicting the state emblem. Utah, for | | | | much less expensive than those Las Vegas. You |
| example, is known as the “beehive | | | | will especially appreciate the difference on the |
| state”, so its highways are show on signs | | | | weekend, when a $60 hotel in LV can easily go to |
| in the form of a beehive. Within a state (because | | | | $140-170, whereas an equivalent hotel in Laughlin |
| you know where you are), it is common practice | | | | at $35 may move up to $70-85. |
| to drop the state name and simply say Highway | | | | Final Tips for Foreign Visitors |
| 1, Highway 2, Highway 3, etc. | | | | The United States tends to “march to a |
| You will leave Las Vegas by heading north | | | | different drummer”. Things there are done |
| Interstate15 (I-15). Once in Utah, turn off on | | | | differently. You have already noticed that rooms |
| Highway 9. Your first stop will be Zion Canyon, | | | | in hotels and motels generally do not include |
| about 4 - 5 hours from LV, where you will | | | | breakfast, which is quite different from the |
| probably want to spend the night. | | | | practice in many other countries. Here are a few |
| How to Find Comfortable, Inexpensive Lodging | | | | other things to watch out for. |
| Should you book motels ahead before you leave | | | | 1. Posted vs. Final Prices |
| LV? Absolutely not! | | | | Local and state taxes are almost never shown in |
| One of the best things about touring the western | | | | posted prices, so the price you see is almost |
| national parks is the sense of freedom and | | | | never the price you pay. This is true in hotels, |
| spontaneity it can give you. You never know | | | | motels, restaurants, department stores, etc. For |
| what is going to impress you the most, so you | | | | example, if a motel shows $55 a night for a |
| never know how long you may wish to stay | | | | double room, the final price is likely to be around |
| anywhere. Booking ahead regiments you. | | | | $61. |
| So how can you be certain of finding a | | | | Why do they do things this way? The idea is that |
| convenient and reasonably priced place to spend | | | | if people don’t know what they are paying |
| the night? Actually, it’s not that difficult. | | | | in taxes, they don’t know when to get |
| Throughout the West there are motels galore, | | | | properly angry about them. Gasoline (commonly |
| even in fairly remote areas. You can usually find a | | | | called “gas”) is an exception; the |
| place to stay even in high season. The trick is to | | | | posted price is the final price. |
| begin looking about 5 - 5:30 p.m. The choice is | | | | 2. Tipping |
| likely still to be plentiful and checking in no later | | | | “Service” in restaurants is almost |
| than 6 p.m. gives you time to take a nap or a dip | | | | never included in the price. The customer is |
| in the pool before going out to eat around 8 p.m. | | | | expected to add this voluntarily as a tip. Normally, |
| then returning to the motel about 10:30 - 11 p.m. | | | | the tip should be about 18% of the bill (in a |
| for a relaxing night’s sleep. | | | | restaurant known as the “check”). It |
| However, don’t become blasé | | | | is traditional to leave the tip in cash on the table. |
| about finding a room. In Utah, the high season | | | | However, if you pay by credit card, you can add |
| does not follow the late May - early September | | | | it directly. Many people chose to do both, i.e. pay |
| convention when children are not in school. In | | | | with a card but leave cash on the table. |
| many places the high season extends into | | | | Whatever you do, don’t forget the tip. |
| mid-October. | | | | Restaurant workers generally get a minimal wage, |
| Don’t insist on being right at the entrance | | | | so they depend on their tips for their livelihood. |
| to the national parks. For example, the town of | | | | Not tipping is equivalent to stealing. |
| Springdale at the entrance to Zion Canyon has | | | | 3. Metric – American conversions |
| numerous motels. But prices are high and in high | | | | If you are used to the metric system, you may |
| season you may struggle to find a room. | | | | find American measures confusing. Here are some |
| Hurricane, a pleasant 35-minute drive from Zion, | | | | easy approximations. |
| has many more motels, with prices about half | | | | A. Weights |
| those in Springdale, and a much broader selection | | | | 1 pound (1 lb) = 0.45 kilo. To convert pounds to |
| of restaurants. | | | | kilos, divide by 2, then subtract 1/10. |
| Also, don’t automatically head for a | | | | Example: Convert 6 lb to kilos. 6 / 2 - 0.3 (1/10 of |
| brand-name motel. As the major motel chains | | | | 3) = 3 - 0.3 = 2.7 kg |
| continue to spread their tentacles across the | | | | For smaller weights such as in a restaurant: 1 |
| country (Motel 6, Super 8, Ramada, Holiday Inn, | | | | pound = 16 ounces, written 1lb = 16 oz. So an 8 |
| Best Western, etc.), locally owned motels are | | | | oz steak is 1/2 of 450 g = 225 g, a 12 oz steak |
| fighting for their lives. You can benefit from this. | | | | is 3/4 of 450 = 340 g. |
| For example, my wife and I rolled into a village | | | | B. Distance |
| looking for a place to stay. We were particularly | | | | Some areas in the U.S. show distance in both |
| eager to go for a swim. The first sight we saw | | | | miles and kilometers, but such places are rare, so |
| was a name-brand motel. It had a pool, but it | | | | you will have to use miles. 1 mile = 1.6 km. For a |
| wasn’t heated. We were in the late | | | | good approximation, add half of the mile distance, |
| autumn, so the water temperature was tolerable | | | | then add 1/10 to get kilometers. |
| but not really inviting. I asked the price of a | | | | Example: Convert 70 miles to kilometers. 70 + 35 |
| double room. It was $79. “That’s a | | | | (1/2 of 70) + 7 (1/10 of 70) = 70 + 35 + 7 = |
| bit beyond our budget,” I said. “Oh, | | | | 112 km. |
| that’s on the ground floor. If you go up a | | | | C. Temperature |
| floor, it’s $59.” That was more to | | | | Fahrenheit to Celsius: subtract 30, divide by two, |
| our budget, but since it was just after 5 p.m., I | | | | then add 1/10. |
| said we would look around first, and maybe come | | | | Example: Convert 88° F to Celsius. 88° |
| back later. | | | | F - 30 = 58, divided 2 = 29. Now add 1/10 of |
| About 2 kilometers down the road, we saw a | | | | 29.to give 29 + 2.9 = 31.9° C. |
| local motel. It was less spiffy because it was not | | | | Celsius to Fahrenheit: multiply by 2, add 30, then |
| brand new, but it appeared to be well-kempt. I | | | | subtract 1/10. |
| asked the price: $42. The room was more than | | | | Example: Convert 32° C to Fahrenheit. |
| acceptable, but the best part was that it had a | | | | 32° C x 2 = 64, plus 30 = 94, subtract 3.2 (1 |
| heated indoor pool! After luxuriating for an hour or | | | | 10 of 32) = 90.8° F. |
| so in the caressingly warm water, we went out | | | | D. Prices |
| for a delicious meal in a nearby restaurant | | | | Approximating prices is tricky because exchange |
| recommended by the motel owner. All in all a | | | | rates constantly vary. Assume 1 euro = 1.3 |
| delightful—and | | | | dollars. Divide the dollar price by 2, then add back |
| money-saving—experience. | | | | half. |
| For foreigners not familiar with the traveling in the | | | | Example: Convert 24 dollars to euros. 24 divide |
| U.S., you should know that most motels do not | | | | by 2 + 6 (half of 12) = 12 + 6 = 18 euros. |
| serve breakfast. This is why a number of local | | | | Have a great trip. And be prepared to come back. |
| restaurants (called coffee shops) will be open, | | | | Because once you have been to Utah, it’s |
| often from 6 a.m., where you can chose | | | | truly hard to stay away. For me, it is impossible. |
| whatever you want to start the | | | | Editor’s Note |
| day—eggs, bacon, waffles, pancakes, | | | | Philip Yaffe is a former reporter/feature writer |
| steak, oatmeal, etc. You may not wish such a | | | | with The Wall Street Journal and a marketing |
| lavish breakfast every day, but you should not | | | | communication consultant. He currently teaches a |
| disdain the idea. A hearty coffee shop breakfast | | | | course in good writing and good speaking in |
| is very much a part of the American travel | | | | Brussels, Belgium. In the “I” of the |
| experience. | | | | Storm: the Simple Secrets of Writing & |
| On to Bryce Canyon | | | | Speaking (Almost) like A Professional, his recently |
| About 1½ hours away from Zion Canyon is | | | | published book, is available from Story Publishers |
| Bryce Canyon. You will leave Zion Canyon on | | | | in Ghent, Belgium (storypublishers.be) and Amazon |
| Highway 9, then turn north on U.S. 89. Where U.S. | | | | (amazon.com). |